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[Marxism] Hungarians fed up with "globalization"



http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-hungary-levis29-2009mar29,0,3266649.story
From the Los Angeles Times
EUROPE OR BUST
In Levi factory town in Hungary, promise of globalization fades
A jeans plant that helped usher in capitalism is expected to shut down
in June, another victim of the worldwide economic crisis.
By Jeffrey Fleishman

March 29, 2009

Reporting from Kiskunhalas, Hungary — Nearly everyone old enough
remembers that day when Levi Strauss & Co., whose jeans evoked the
rebellious allure of the West for millions of youths trapped in the
Soviet bloc, opened its doors at the edge of town and began hiring box
men and seamstresses.

It was 1988. The Berlin Wall was months away from tumbling down. And
there was Laszlo Varnai, a worker at a state-owned cooperative farm,
watching with delight as spools of thread and crates of indigo blue were
hauled into a factory beyond a row of trees.

"It was a grand miracle of the times," said Varnai, recalling how road
signs went up pointing traffic to the plant. "They brought a production
mentality and a way of working that was alien to the socialist system.
It changed us."

The town grew. Varnai became mayor. But the fable-like quality has
vanished. The Levi factory is closing.

The company's troubled balance sheet is another creak in the global
economy, but Kiskunhalas, named for a clan that centuries ago sharpened
swords on this furrowed land, is bitter that its fate is woven into
market whims. Nearly 550 townspeople, many of whom ride bikes to work,
are expected to lose their jobs in June.

"It's the suddenness that's unacceptable," said Varnai, sitting in the
town hall with a big hole in his budget and a lot of worry outside his door.

"Those are people in that factory. Life is more complex than just
shutting something down. It might not be to Levi's, but it is to this
small town. The inhuman nature in the cold numbers of capitalism, that's
what stuns you."

The global financial crisis has battered Hungary's economy, raising
worries across the continent that 20 years after the Berlin Wall fell,
former Soviet bloc nations are becoming costly burdens to the European
Union.

The EU's goal of cohesion is straining relations between Western and
Eastern Europe, and between formerly communist nations, the more
prosperous of which, such as Poland and the Czech Republic, don't want
to be lumped with laggards such as Hungary and Latvia, which this year
have seen riots and protesting farmers.

Hungarian Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsany, who unexpectedly announced
his resignation this month over the slow pace of fiscal reforms, has
warned that a new economic "Iron Curtain" is stretching across Europe.
That may be overly dramatic, but it's telling on a continent where the
ideal of Europe crystallized in a West that has reluctantly embraced
eastern nations. Grand plans, ideals and visions are colliding with
widening debt and plummeting currencies.

The EU recently rejected a request for a $240-billion loan to Eastern
Europe, even though the crisis is the worst on the continent since the
rise of fascism in the 1930s. It later agreed to double a credit line
available to the East to $68 billion, and European leaders have endorsed
a doubling to $500 billion of International Monetary Fund loans to
struggling countries around the globe.

Officials in Central and Eastern Europe are concerned that their Western
neighbors, facing pressures from unions and anxious voters, may abandon
solidarity for protectionism. France has hinted as much by vowing to
prop up its carmakers, and German Chancellor Angela Merkel does not want
the prospect of Eastern European bailouts to taint her country's
parliamentary elections in September.

The EU has expanded to 27 members, including Hungary and Romania, but
the fit is akin to well-to-do cousins tolerating their unpolished kin on
the other side of town. The financial crisis has highlighted these
divides, especially in Hungary, which has entrenched corruption and has
failed to reform a bloated welfare state regarded as a throwback to a
Europe that no longer exists.

"We cannot afford to go through the big bust we are now going through,"
said Gyorgy Jaksity, managing director of Concorde Securities in
Budapest, the Hungarian capital. "When communism ended 20 years ago, it
was an historic moment, a time to put in a new structure to catch up
with the developed world. But Hungary never put that structure in place.
It's not what we did in 1989; it's what we didn't do.

"Our neighbors want to distance themselves from us, saying, 'You don't
want to fall off the cliff with those irresponsible Hungarians.' "

But globalization has shrunk distances, whether between Levi's
Kiskunhalas factory and the company's European headquarters in Brussels
or between Budapest and Berlin.

Follow the global meltdown trail: German factory orders are down nearly
40%, which means Hungary's exports to Germany have fallen, which means
Budapest, carrying $100 billion in external debt, can no longer avoid
reforms to its generous pension and health programs. If Hungary's
currency continues to wither -- the forint has declined 25% against the
euro in less than a year -- the country may default on its international
loans, sending another jolt through Western banks.

Little sense of alarm, however, can be detected in the shopping malls or
on the fashionable boulevards of Budapest. It's as if Hungarians there,
from the chic to those just getting by, are in a glittery kind of denial
over the financial crisis. They spend, sip espressos and polish their
cars while their left- and right-leaning politicians argue in perpetual
gridlock. But travel two hours south across the plains to Kiskunhalas
and there is no sense of illusion, no pretty talk of better days.

"When communism ended, Hungary developed quicker than its neighbors.
Back then we had new cars and Coke in cans, which was quite a
development," said Akos Spitzer, who sells washing machines and
refrigerators. "But maybe we developed too fast without having the real
money to pay for it. This is the bubble that's bursting."

There had long been rumors that the Levi factory might close, but a
small town runs on gossip and the plant stayed open.

"Levi's sponsored games and sports. They were active in the community,"
Varnai said. "About 100 of their employees are two-income earners from
the same families: husband-wife, mother-daughter. . . . But now Levi's
is leaving and they didn't want to talk about how we could get them to
stay. They're acting like they never were part of us. It's a great blow
to this town."

Gavin Moore, head of production for Levi Strauss in Europe, said the
global downturn had slackened sales and "it just wasn't feasible" to
keep the Kiskunhalas plant running.

Not much was moving through town the other day, except hail blowing off
the plains, where horses pulled plows and farmers waited for the return
of the storks, which brings out the TV news crews. The woman behind the
counter at a bookstore, an at-home seamstress until Chinese blouses
flooded the market, didn't know how bills and mortgages would be paid
with so many Levi employees laid off at once. The man punching out
lottery tickets wasn't so talkative.

Between 4 p.m. and 4:01 p.m., car ignitions clicked and bicycle tires
hummed as the Levi factory shift ended. Marianne Szalay, a seamstress,
walked along a path to her bus. She has a university degree in cultural
management and will try to find other work. She remembers when a man
with a microphone stood in the factory and told the workers their fate.

A few days later it was the national Women's Day, when employers and
bosses traditionally bought flowers for their female workers.

"I received flowers from Levi's for nine years. It was a little thing,
only a gesture, but it meant something," said Szalay, standing to the
side as other workers hurried past. "This year, after they announced
they were letting us go, they didn't give us flowers."

jeffrey.fleishman@xxxxxxxxxxx

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